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USING
CT250 Printed Circuit Board
TROUBLE
SHOOTING GUIDE
No
display at topside
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Check
miss-wire fuse between J23 and
J12 – If blown check Incoming wiring L1, L2, N are correct.
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Check
that connection to main board is clean and sound at J8
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Test
a new topside control.
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Check
for 120V primary power going into the transformer and for 12V secondary
power out of the transformer to J6 & J7 on the board before replacing
the transformer.
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Replace
board if there is 12V to J6 & J7
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Display
flashes " th1 / 39 " or
“- - - / 39"
on system start up
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If
the fill water is less than 39F and will stay in freeze protect mode until
over-ridden or the water temp rises above 39F
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( see freeze protect information )
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Check
that temperature sensing probe connection to main board is clean and sound
at location J2.
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Try
new temperature sensing probe.
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Display
flashes " th2 / current temperature
" or “ - - - / current
temperature"
on system start up.
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Check
that the temperature-sensing probe connected to the main board is clean and
sound at location J1.
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Try
new temperature sensing probe
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Display
flashes " th2 / 39 " or “
- - - / 39”on system start
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This
indicates that both thermisters
are detecting tub water temperature of less than 39F / 4C or they are both
disconnected (open). Pump(s) and blower will run in this condition.
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Display flashes " OH "
or the “ Current Temperature”
( OVER HEAT)
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This
indicates that the spa water
temp is over 112F. The system should be shut down in this state and will
re-start automatically when the water cools below 112F.
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Display
flashes " hot " or
“ Current Temperature"
( OVER HEAT )
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This
indicates that the heater body
is over 112F. The system should be shut down in this state and will re-start
automatically when the water cools below 112F.
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Display flashes " HL "
or “ Current Temperature"
( HIGH LIMIT )
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This
indicates that either the heater or the spa has reached 118F
or higher. The system will not re-start automatically.
To re-start the system, the water temperature must be below 112F and
the heater key at the topside control must be pressed.
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If
"HL" stays on and cannot be disarmed, there has been high amperage
drawn through the board - 48 Amps total max. - replace board.
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Display
flashes " FLO"
or "-
-"
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This
indicates a flow problem where the pressure switch is not closing
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Check
that filters are clean
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Check
for a flow obstruction or closed valve
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Check
that topside program is set up correctly for pump speeds
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( see
factory-programming instruction )
Display flashes " FLC" or
“- -"
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This
indicates that the pressure switch is stuck in the closed position
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Turn
the power off and check the pressure switch for continuity using
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an
Ohms meter for resistance or other buzzer style continuity tester.
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Erratic
operation or 0 at topside panel
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Check
for proper connection at J8
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Shut
off system and restart
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Check
for debris inside topside panel control housing
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Check
cable connection at the topside control remove, clean reconnect
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Try
new topside control
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Replace
main board
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No
heat
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Check
the topside control for " HL". This indicates that the system has
overheated. Make sure the temperature has fallen to less than 112F
and press the heat key to reset.
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Check
that temperature set point is higher than actual tub temperature.
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Check
for flashing LED at topside control to indicate heat demand
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Check
that filters are clean
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Check
to see if the pilot light at the equipment panel is on. This indicates if
power is actually getting to the heater element. If this light is on and
there is still no heat, the element should be checked for continuity. If the
element is open, it needs to be replaced .
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If
the pilot light still does not turn on, then the pressure switch may need to
be adjusted. The pressure switch is located on the heater body and has a
small wheel on it. This wheel should be turned counter clockwise to allow
the heater to run on less water flow / pressure. This pressure switch is a
protection switch that is meant to turn the heater off if the pump fails to
operate or if there is not enough pump pressure. A test to see if the
pressure switch has been adjusted correctly is to unplug the circulation
pump and see if the heater shuts off. It should operate again when the pump
is plugged back in. The heater should not be allowed to operate under static
( gravitational ) pressure when the pump is not on as it will cause an
instant overheat.
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If
a flow switch is used it must be checked for continuity when closed.
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Replace
the circuit board if the above remedies do not work
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Note: Some systems have fixed pressure switches to prevent
tampering. It is highly recommended that the spa plumbing is checked for
obstructions first.
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Temperature
readout is wrong
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Remove
temperature sensor / thermister from the tub location and
submerge it directly
into the water. This will verify if the sensor has
been installed where ambient air has affected it or if it is defective.
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Insulate
the through wall dry well so the ambient air does not influence the
temperature measurement
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Overheat
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If
the water is too hot and the high limit has tripped, the water must be
allowed to drop to less than 112F before it will reset. Reset by pressing
the heat key at the topside control or restarting the system
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The
circulation of the water may be too low, allowing the heater body to
overheat. Be sure that all valves are fully open to allow maximum water flow
over the heater element.
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The
friction and radiant heat from the pump motor can
cause an extremely high ambient temperature around the spa and the equipment
causing an overheat condition. If this condition is suspect, try running the
spa with the equipment door off to see if it still overheats.
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Pump(s),
Blower or light does not shut off
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System
may be in freeze protect mode if
water is less than 52
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(
this temp level may vary with custom software ) System will run in protection
mode and you will not be able to control the pumps, heater or optional blower.
You must introduce warm water into the spa or manually over-ride the system or
wait for the system to heat up on its own. Depending on outdoor temp this can
take several hours.
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Try
new topside control
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Replace
main board
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Circulation
pump does not work
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Check
the fuse and power connections.
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Light
does not work
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Press
Light Key at top side
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Check
bulb
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Check
12V out to light at J4 & J5
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Filter
Cycle does not operate
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Adjust
the temperature set point to be within 2
degrees F of the actual water temperature. If the water temperature
creeps 2 degrees F higher than the set temp, the system will shut off to
allow the water to cool. When the water cools down to the desired set point,
filtration will resume. Proper ventilation of the equipment will minimize
this interruption.
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Ground
Fault Interrupter Trips
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Check
if it does it only when heat turns on, if so check element by removing the
power to the element terminal and turn the heat on. If it only faults when
the element is connected with power, the element has a ground fault and must
be replaced
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This
can be done with the pump(s), blower, ozonator, or any other peripheral
equipment as a process of elimination to see where the fault may be.
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Be
sure that the neutral on the
GFCI has been wired properly in the main panel.
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General
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All
connections should be checked that they are secure
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Always
exercise general electrical common sense for safety.
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Please
do not hesitate to contact us if you have any questions or concerns.
Correct-Tech, Inc.
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